![]() Raising your E's a few cents only effects how well your open strings blend with the other instruments. The difference in bar positions is very slight. It made no difference in his ability to play perfectly in tune with the bar, up and down the neck. Then he realized that some of his his open strings were too flat and he adjusted his tuning chart upwards. For years (decades?) Jeff tuned his E strings to 440 and played perfectly in tune with everyone. How you tune your E strings is not relevant to whether you are playing in tune or not. If 2 players play together on a set, one is not in tune with other, I would think or not? If one's Es is 400 and the other's is sharp. We hear guys tuning their E's to 400 and some tune them sharp (Jeff Newman way). Mine goes to 8 cents only because it is a 12-string, and I have extra pulls on the heavy-gauge low strings. On most modern 10-string pedal steels, the cabinet drop is probably less than 5 cents. If your cabinet drop is less than 5 cents (1.25 Hz), this kind of compensation is probably not worth fooling with. Many meters allow you to choose what your "straight up" reference pitch is. ![]() For ET it just means your "straight up" reference for all the open, unpedaled strings would be 441 (or whatever it needs to be for your guitar) rather than 440. And by the way, this works whether you tune JI or straight up ET. This splitting the difference may be why Jeff Newman put the reference for the Es a little sharp for one of his charts. But if I tune my Es to 440, and they drop to 438 with the pedals down, I think I sound off with the group. 441 or 439 are acceptable for the small amount of playing I do open at the nut. I tune my Es to a reference of 441, then when I hit the pedals, they will only drop to around 439. Since I know I have about 2 Hz (8 cents) cabinet drop, I choose to split the difference. Once the bar hits the strings, any accompished player will automatically adjust with their ears, and whether the open strings are tuned to a reference a couple of Hz one way or the other is irrelevant.īut playing open at the nut, a couple of Hz sharp or flat (about 8 cents) can clash with the other players in the group. If you think about it, the reference pitch for your Es (or your As, if you tune with your pedals down) mostly only affects your tuning when you play open at the nut. Many many PSG players, the less vocal about their "systems" tune everything exactly "straight up". You're better off, and you're doing them a favor.Īlso, if anything, your notes after the initial string attack jump 5 cents higher, so tuning to E usually takes up some of the slack if you're playing with "sharpies". ![]() I take it you're comfortable with your tuning "system", and you're just asking about the Main Frame, the E's.ĭon't hesitate to tell a lower shelf guitar player that they're squeezing their notes sharper. ![]() That way you know what you're up against unless they "flange" the notes, then all bets are off. Ask to check the one you are playing against out with a tuner you trust. MOST NEW ELECTRONIC KEYBOARDS are set right on. I could never bring mysef to do it, and just outlived the worst of them. If you're stuck with one of those that always play sharp, you might as well give in. If it makes sense to tune the way the instruments you play with tune, then do it.Ī lot of lower shelf guitar players set their intonation "right on" and they are then mostly always sharp when the skin hits the wood.
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